Watching Paper or Plastic?, the new documentary about the regional qualifiers and Las Vegas final of the 2007 National Grocery Bagging Competition, I was surprised to note the presence of something that's hard to come by in 2008: Sincerity. I don't mean just that Paper or Plastic? never mocks, knocks or condescends to the seven contestants from every corner of America the finale brings together -- although it never does -- but more that co-directors Alex D. da Silva and Justine Jacob not only found an event to observe but also a spirit to celebrate. The seven contestants we meet want to win; their friends and family support and surround them; they're part of a long tradition of competition. And da Silva and Jacob gradually, gently pull us into the world of competitive grocery bagging until, by the end of the film, I was literally at seat's edge watching a contestant race to beat the clock thinking Oh, God, don't forget the Life Savers ... they deduct points for that. ...

But while you're being entertained by Paper or Plastic?, you're also getting a fairly solid glimpse at modern life. One grocery executive notes that the "courtesy walk" taking a customer's well-bagged groceries still matters: "That's the last place Mrs. Consumer still has an impression of the store." And as freaky as the phrase "Mrs. Consumer" sounds in this day and age (all I can imagine is Donna Reed, with apron and pearls), you also realize he means it. Another grocery executive fan of the Championship notes "It's like American Idol; you never know where the stars are. ..." you realize that while what he's saying is a subtle comment on our modern celebrity culture, he, too, also means it.

The competitors each have their reasons and their regiments, trying and training: Jacob's a once-shy kid discovering himself through bagging; Brenda's a mother and wife competing perhaps out of a wish to find something new; James is a California cool-kid whose store's bagging competition looks like Thunderdome with cookie boxes instead of battle axes; Kim, an older bagger who's backed by a frantic chorus of her peers; Roger, an immigrant trying to achieve and strive in a new world; Ryan, an aw-shucks kid with a heart of gold and a value set seemingly on loan from Frank Capra films; Brian, who came this close to glory last year and wants to prove himself this year; finally, there's Jon, a Minnesotan who has trained champions but never competed -- until now. And America may seem like a divided nation in this modern age, Paper or Plastic? reminds us, gently, of the common things that bind us, which are often small things; to paraphrase Barack Obama, we appreciate double-bagging in the Blue states, and we don't like having our crushables put under heavy items in the Red states.

In other words, Paper or Plastic? has a more complex set of characters and motivations and internal struggles in it than ninety percent of most movies you'll see this summer. Da Silva and Jacob give the film time to get to know these people, but they also keep it moving to the tick-tock towards Las Vegas, the championships and how one bagger will become primus inter pares, first among equals, taking home $2,000 and a gigantic smile. And much like Bravo's Top Chef or Project Runway, Paper or Plastic? is about a competition that involves empirically determined metrics of success; if you don't bag it right, and bag it fast, you lose.

Competition docs like Paper or Plastic?, Spellbound, Word Wars and others do have that easy eye-of-the-tiger hook, but like Spellbound and Word Wars and Mad Hot Ballroom, the pleasures of Paper or Plastic? go far past the thrill of victory and the agony of defeat; as we go from grocery to grocery stand, sea to shining sea, a group of Americans tell distinctly American stories celebrating this country's values and occasionally acknowledging its challenges. And, yes, going head-to-head for the title; near the end of Paper or Plastic?, a judge advises the competitors "Everybody stay on your feet, because we're going to re-set for plastic ..." and you brace yourself for the final competition like the final quarter or last at-bat of any big game that's held you enthralled. Paper or Plastic? may find big topics in the title's seemingly simple question, but it also finds big achievements in seemingly small victories.